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Singapore’s Ultimate Luxury

Being Indonesian, most of the people I know talked about Singapore as a luxurious weekend getaway of shopping spree, and as a Jakartan, I thought I’ve had enough of skyscrapers and malls. So I’ve never made it to Singapore, except for one time ten years ago to get to Johor Bahru for a debating competition, until last weekend when I came to watch the Sound of Music’s Broadway show. I arrived in the evening, and by 8am the next morning,  realized how much I have been missing out.

We started our first day in Singapore by visiting the Botanic Gardens and ended up spending the better part of our day there. It is precisely because I am Jakartan I could appreciate the lush greenery at the heart of the city, so well kept even without an entrance fee.  Smaller themed gardens are nestled throughout the stretch of the Botanic Gardens, with ample space for families to spend their Saturday on a picnic, for the elderly to practice Tai Chi, for couples and small decorating businesses to do photo shoots, and for Twosocks to sit alone by a stream watching the water trickle by.  I could easily see myself returning next time – armed with a picnic basket, a book, and a wide brimmed hat – for a lazy start to the morning, a long afternoon walk, and an evening of music under the stars. Right then, just like so many other Jakartans, I found Singapore to be incredibly luxurious.

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July 2014, Gypsytoes

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When I Think of Bromo, I Think of an Otoped

To say that Bromo is beautiful would be an understatement. One could spend all day roaming around its savanna, trying to catch what the sands are whispering in its desert, or watching the caldera changes as the clouds ascend and descend. Yet, what I remembered the most was how Bromo reminded me of why I keep traveling: the sky. Being a Jakartan, I am so used to gray smoggy sky that I have forgotten to look up. In Bromo, my neck hurt from looking up all day to see how vivid the sky really is. It could be so golden in the morning, achingly blue at noon, a mellow hue of orange-lavender at sunset, and a sparkly jet black at night. In fact, my favorite memory in Bromo was one left uncaptured, under the sparkly jet black sky.

The Dusty Sneakers - Bromo

It was a little after midnight, when most of our travel companions chose to curl up in our homestay, while Twosocks found a World Cup viewing party in a security guard post a few minutes away. Najib and I had too much adrenaline from the day and too little interest in soccer, so we made ourselves comfortable on the sidewalk of an unlit bridge and looked up.

What I saw was a majestic theatre of stars, complete with shooting stars gracing the sky every few minutes, but what I managed to ineloquently blurt out was only, “Whoa, this reminds me of the Taiwanese TV series, Meteor Garden.”

I could tell that Najib wanted to laugh, but bless his heart, he didn’t. Instead, we talked about how metaphors for such a starry night never seemed to be quite adequate. Incubus, for instance, came up with “the sky resembles as backlit canopy, with holes punched in it” in their song ‘Wish You Were Here’. We then talked about how people made up the constellation centuries ago, and that we should gave it a try ourselves.

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The Dusty Sneakers I Bromo

The Dusty Sneakers I Bromo

I squinted hard. “A unicorn,” I said.

“A boar,” I said again, a few minutes later.

Najib stayed quiet for a while, but then he said, “You know, I only see inanimate objects.”

“Like what?”

“Like an otoped.”

I am ashamed to say that my heart wasn’t as blessed as his, for I immediately burst into laughter. I haven’t finished laughing when he continued, “And a book.”

Najib started laughing too, and since his laugh is one of the most contagious I know, I laughed so hard I forgot to make my wish when more shooting stars flew by. The only thing I could think about, amidst our giggles, was how I long for the day I could see an otoped and a book in the Jakartan night sky.

The Dusty Sneakers I Bromo

July 2014,

Gypsytoes

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Geliat Kreatif di Sudut Pasar yang Sepi

Petang itu, Pasar Santa seperti biasa terlihat sepi. Tak banyak aktivitas di barisan toko yang sebagian besar tutup saat malam menjelang. Di lantai satu hanya sebuah toko kelontong dan penjahit pakaian dengan lampu yang tampak menyala. Lampu remang yang tak membuat banyak perbedaan di lorong-lorong pasar yang gelap.

Sehari-hari pasar tradisional di wilayah Kebayoran Baru ini memang relatif sepi. Saat ini, dari 1,151 kios di bangunan tiga lantai ini, 692 diantaranya kosong tanpa penyewa. Sebagian besar ditinggalkan pedagang yang konon perlahan merugi karena sepinya pengunjung. Kepala Pasar Santa, Bambang Sugiarto, pernah mengatakan menjamurnya pedagang kaki lima di Jl. Cipaku, wilayah depan pasar, serta banyaknya mini market di kawasan Kebayoran Baru membuat pasarnya selalu sepi. Dan begitulah, Pasar Santa, menjalani hari-harinya yang letih dan lengang.

Saya dan Gypsytoes malam itu berada di sana karena kebetulan saja. Setelah acara Sua Pelancong lalu, kami diundang oleh dua teman baru yang bersemangat, Intan dan Arya, untuk datang ke acara restock party di Substore, toko piringan hitam dan pakaian milik mereka di lantai dua pasar. Pasar yang sepi, apalagi setelah lewat petang, membuat mereka cukup leluasa membuat acara kumpul-kumpul. Di sana kami diminta membawakan spoken word seperti saat di Sua Pelancong. Tentu rasanya terhormat sekali. Kami para anak bawang dalam hal spoken word diminta tampil di sebuah acara anak-anak muda kreatif di sebuah pasar tradisional. Walau awalnya cukup gentar juga, hal-hal berjalan lancar sesudahnya. Apalagi semua yang hadir begitu hangat dan penuh penghargaan untuk kami yang masih canggung.

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Selain kami, ada pula Dave Tepalawatin, pria pemetik gitar yang kemampuan menyanyinya membuat semua cakap dihentikan barang sejenak. Dinyanyikannya lagu-lagu Bob Marley atau Glen Fredly yang membuat penonton mengangguk-anggukkan kepala atau menggoyangkan ujung kaki sembari menyeruput bergelas-gelas kopi. Itu adalah pesta kecil yang yang akrab. Pesta dengan latar musik dari koleksi Substore, petik gitar Dave, bincang intim antar teman baru, kopi enak dari kedai kopi sebelah Substore,  dan ehm, sedikit puisi spoken word dari kami.

Pengalaman mencoba sebuah ekspresi kreatif baru dengan berpuisi membuat hati ini senang juga. Hingga saatnya pulang Gypsytoes dan saya masih girang berbinar-binar akan pengalaman baru itu. Namun, malam itu ada hal lain yang juga meninggalkan kesan mendalam. Di pasar tradisional yang letih ini, muncul geliat anak-anak muda yang mungkin dapat memberinya nafas baru. Substore membawa koleksi piringan hitam yang langka dengan harga lebih terjangkau ke pasar tradisional. Piringan hitam langka selama ini  identik dengan pasar loak semacam toko-toko barang antik di Jl. Surabaya. Namun, belakangan mengkoleksi piringan hitam juga menjadi sebuah kegiatan yang begitu bergaya. Kini lempeng-lempeng tua ini juga mengisi toko-toko gaya hidup di pusat-pusat perbelanjaan. Namun demikian, pengalaman mengobrak-abrik piringan hitam langka di pasar loak tetap adalah pengalaman mengasyikkan tersendiri.  Saya jelas bukan seorang kolektor, tetapi saya membayangkan jika menemukan piringan langka lagu-lagu tua Ernie Djohan setelah mengobrak-abrik pasar loak, hasil buruan itu akan saya peluk dengan jauh lebih syahdu dibanding jika menemukannya di toko-toko lucu di pusat perbelanjaan modern. Ada “rasa perburuan” yang mengasyikkan di sana. Substore tampaknya juga ingin memberikan pengalaman itu. Pengalaman berburu piringan hitam langka di sebuah toko kecil yang unik, di sudut pasar tradisional yang sepi, dengan harga yang lebih murah. Apalagi, Intan dan Arya adalah dua pribadi menyenangkan yang memberikan perasaan berkomunitas bagi pengunjungnya.

Selain koleksi piringan hitam, mereka juga memperkenalkan idealisme yang lain. Mereka memperkenalkan pakaian dengan brand “Sight from the East”, sebuah inisiatif untuk lebih memperkenalkan kain tenun NTT. Perjalanan Intan dan Arya menjelajahi NTT membuat mereka terkagum-kagum akan karya tenunnya. Saat sekarang batik begitu membahana, kain tenun dari perajin-perajin NTT memang masih berada di belakang. Selain sulit ditemui, tenun-tenun indah ini pun masih relatif mahal.  Karenanya Intan dan Arya mengakali dengan memodifikasi potongan tenun itu dengan sebuah denim dibantu seorang penjahit keliling. Jadilah ia pakaian denim yang bergaya dengan aksen tenun NTT.

Kesan berkomunitas yang hangat juga diberikan oleh kedai kopi di sebelah Substore. ABCD A Bunch Of Caffeine Dealers– begitu sebutannya. Ini adalah taman bermain para pencinta kopi di mana anak-anak muda ahli meracik kopi bergembira ria di sana. Kopi dengan racikan terbaik disajikan untuk pengunjung yang bebas membayar sesuka hati, seberapapun mereka menilai nikmat kopi yang baru saja diseruput. Penggagasnya, Hendri Kurniawan, bukan sembarang peracik kopi. Ia adalah juri kejuaran barista dunia, ia juga seorang konsultan di balik kedai-kedai kopi di banyak kota di Indonesia. Kedai ini awalnya adalah tempat persembunyiannya di mana ia berbagi hal-hal di seputar kopi dengan teman-temannya sesama penikmat kopi. Setelah setahun, ABCD semakin dikenal. Semakin banyak yang datang untuk menkmati kebersahajaan kedai ini serta nikmat kopinya. Pengelolaannya yang begitu cair menambah karakter pada tempat ini. Teman-teman Hendri dan peracik kopi lain bebas untuk bantu-bantu meracik, menyajikan kopi, bahkan mencuci gelas. Jam buka pun tegantung kesediaan waktu para peracik muda berbakat ini. Ngopi di pasar, begitu mereka menyebut aktivitas ini. Di sini dapat kita lihat penikmat kopi paling serius, petugas keamanan atau berandal pasar,  eksekutif muda dengan dagu terangkat, mahasiswa yang mencari, pemusik yang mencari tempatnya, bersama-sama menyeruput kopi-kopi paling nikmat yang pernah ada.

Petang itu, lantai dua Pasar Santa memberi kesan yang dalam untuk kami. Di antara pasar yang menyepi, muncul geliat anak-anak muda yang bergerak karena kecintaannya akan sesuatu. Hendri dan para peracik kopi dengan kecintaannya akan kopi enak, Intan dan Arya dengan kecintaannya akan musik, piringan hitam, dan Indonesia timur. Sudut Pasar Santa ini menjadi tempat mereka bebas bermain.

“Kepala pasar membebaskan kami untuk bikin acara apa pun di sini, tanpa biaya tambahan, tanpa gangguan preman,“ demikian ujar Arya kepada kami, saat sekilas terdengar lagu lama Jackson Five dari pemutar piringan hitam.

Saat berjalan pulang, Gypsytoes dan saya mengingat pembicaraan dengan Steven, seorang teman lain yang tadi juga kami temui di sana. Kami berbicara tentang nafas baru di pasar yang lengang itu. Kami membayangkan tempat itu betul-betul bisa menjadi area kreatif alternatif bagi anak-anak muda Jakarta. Kami membayangkan di tangga menuju lantai dua itu berdiri penyair muda yang membacakan puisi sementara yang lain menontonnya dari bangku-bangku kayu di depan kedai. Kami membayangkan diskusi buku yang bisa dilakukan di area sekitar tangga sambil menyeruput kopi. Kami membayangkan sebuah ruangan di mana seniman-seniman muda yang baru mulai merintis karir memamerkan karya fotografi atau lukisnya. Kami membayangkan sebuah tempat yang memberi ruang kreatif, yang akan membuat siapapun dapat menikmatinya dengan bersahaja. Kami mendengar bahwa beberapa kelompok muda memang sedang melihat kemungkinan memanfaatkan sudut pasar ini. Mungkin tak lama lagi hal itu benar-benar akan terwujud. Sebuah sudut kreatif alternatif di Jakarta, saat duduk-duduk di pasar dan berkreasi menjadi kegiatan yang nikmat dilakukan di sebuah akhir pekan. Sehingga nafas baru benar-benar akan muncul di sudut pasar yang lengang ini.

Dan saya kembali teringat saat Gypsytoes, Steven, dan saya saling memandang dan tersenyum, saat sebuah ide muncul seperti bola lampu yang menyala di atas kepala kami.

Twosocks

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What We Talk about When We Talk about Music and Travel

“What do we talk about when we talk about music and travel?” Twosocks asked, his already large eyes bulging even more.

We just received an invitation from Vira to speak at Sua Pelancong, an intimate gathering to share travel stories organized by and for travel enthusiasts. We were ecstatic, of course. We’ve heard about Sua Pelancong for a while and have been following the live tweets and blog recaps of past editions, so of course we were excited to be invited to the sixth volume of their gathering. But we were also confused. The theme of Sua Pelancong Volume 6 is travel and music, and we were not quite sure what story we could tell.

It’s not that we were aliens who shrivel at the sound of music – I could never write an essay without listening to Kings of Convenience, Twosocks felt most ready for his morning run after a dose of songs from Rocky’s training montage, and one of our favorite routines to welcome the weekend is to sip tea and munch on toast while listening to Edith Piaf and Frank Sinatra. But they are every day mundane moments, not fantastic travel and music stories worthy of sharing.

“Wait, instead of focusing on what to talk about, what about focusing on how we are going to talk about travel and music?” Twosocks eyes were impossibly large at this point. “What if we do a spoken word performance?”

I was intrigued. How could I not? We’ve been smitten with spoken word ever since we saw our friend, the poet Khairani Barokka brought it on stage to Jakarta two years ago. Never before we saw poetry performed in such a light, heartfelt, and relatable manner. We laughed to tears watching Beau Sia confront the stereotypes around Asians in the U.S., beamed when Gill Sotu recounted his teenage love experience, and rendered speechless as Mayda del Valle performed before Obama in the White House. We have always wanted to give it a try, but we never dared to. Until now.

We huddled over a cup of tea, cardamom masala this time to celebrate my trip to India the following day, and came up with a skeleton for our music and travel story. We decided to select two most memorable music-related moments from our individual travels – watching Evita on Broadway for Twosocks and a chance encounter with a street musician in Barcelona for me – and break up sections for each of us to write while I’m away for two weeks on my trip. We would only have one day to finalize the poetry and practice performing, but hey, that was part of the thrill!

Sua Pelancong goodies: postcards from Indohoy and reusable bag from Greeneration

Sua Pelancong goodies: postcards from Indohoy and reusable bag from Greeneration

Two weeks after the cardamom masala induced brainstorm, we arrived at Sua Pelancong’s venue at Never Been Better, Kemang. My heart thumped loudly over my orange dress and I could tell that Twosocks was full of jitters too, but all the nervous bug evaporated the moment the first speaker stood up. We were lost in stories of travel and music.

So what did they talk about when they talk about travel and music?

They talked about music and travel as an inspiration to create. The first speaker in Sua Pelancong, Avo, is a beatboxer, a lecturer, and a filmmaker with an infectious smile and an overabundance of energy. He shot a music video for his singer/songwriter friend during their vacation to Solo, took a spontaneous clip of him beatboxing with two kecak dancers after watching their performance in Bali, and is in the process of finalizing his documentary on the Indonesian Beatboxing Community’s efforts to learn about kecak in Ubud, Bali. We really can’t wait for the full release of his Project Chant!

They talked about music and travel as an introduction to and preservation of indigenous cultures. The second speaker was the Menuju Timur duo, Aria and Intan, who love exploring Eastern Indonesia and taking other people along with them. Aria and Intan showed us videos of traditional dances and music in Flores and Manggarai, sharing that they often arrange for such performances when travelers come with them to those areas. The youth in some villages, they said, would initially only watch from a distance when such performance take place. They were embarrassed, perhaps, thinking that the traditional music and dance are outdated. But as more travelers come along, more and more young people seem to be interested in their traditional art, up to the point where they learned and performed themselves.

They talked about the music that wouldn’t leave your head as you travel on. Fauzy, who happens to be one of the masterminds behind Kandura Keramik, only planned to transit in Liverpool before hiking in Snowdonia National Park. The Beatles could be seen all over Liverpool, since it is the band’s hometown, and the song Penny Lane got stuck in his mind for four days even when he was up in the mountains.

Sua Pelancong speakers

When our turn came, the jitterbugs came back. Twosocks was so nervous, he forgot his sandals when we stepped forward. I tried my best to run the lines we rehearsed only the morning before in my head, crossing my fingers that I wouldn’t forget. But then, we opened our mouths and started telling our story. A story about music as destination, music as something small that could snap you out of a bad moment on the road, and how music could take you to travel without moving at all. We talked about Evita on Broadway, of the guitarist on the Cataluna Art Museum, and of Diskopantera the Jakartan DJ who brought us back to the shoulder pads and primped hair of the 80s.

Bless the Sua Pelancong crew, they cheered for us. Us, spoken word greenhorns, who had no clue what to do with our hands and whose poetry still need an extra dose of rhythm. Intan asked us to perform at her and Aria’s record store’s Restock Party the day after and we said yes without hesitation, although the jitterbugs immediately came flocking back.

So there it was, the Sua Pelancong story. Our warmest thanks to Vira, Mumun, Vindhya, and Cindy for organizing the event and inviting us. We walked away with lovely stories, inspiring new friends, and an encouragement to be as playful and exploring as we wanted in telling travel stories, which are exactly what we hope to do through The Dusty Sneakers.

When we walked down Kemang Selatan, Twosocks reminded me that we did not have a title for our spoken word poetry.

“What We Talk about When We Talk about Music and Travel,” I answered without much thought. I looked at him, he nodded, and just like that, the title for our first spoken word was sealed.

The Dusty Sneakers

Jakarta, June 2014
Gypsytoes