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Jakarta: The Adventure of Following Your Tunes

If you were asked to select a soundtrack for Jakarta, most likely you would choose a tune that best captures the city’s strongest image for you. For political activists, it may be the folksy rhythm of Iwan Fals or the hippie rock of Slank – both sharp with social criticisms. For those who hailed from Javanese villages and are frustrated with Jakarta’s traffic, it may be the late Mbah Surip’s Tak Gendong.

But what I realized very recently is that if you put the question in reverse, Jakarta will surprise you. Select the music of your choice and seek for it in Jakarta, then the city will reveal one of its million faces that you’ve never seen before.

I am generally put off by concerts or live music performances in Jakarta. The Dahsyats and the Inboxs are aggravating, the Java Jazzes and foreign artists’ showcases too expensive, and the Monas and Ancol concerts are overcrowded and outright scary. I should have known that Jakarta, the city of wonders, has something for me hidden in one of its nooks and crannies  – but not until I got addicted to the band SORE and craved to see them perform live that I found it.

The journey started with facebook, where a friend informed me of SORE’s fan page. From the page I discovered that the band will perform in an event called RAME RAMERAH on the 16th of August at a place called Kandank Jurank Doank (KJD) with a book donation as its entrance fee.

So, on the D-day, armed with used books and after spending an hour with our nice taxi driver, Twosocks and I arrived at the venue. And we were amazed.

For starters, KJD is not an abandoned field used for mosh pits or punk concerts. It’s where Dik Doank, an Indonesian artist with a vision, hosts its Sekolah Alam. It’s a lush, large complex that features art studios, library, an outbound site, basketball and soccer fields, a warung lesehan, and a gamelan and wayang stage. Loud pop colours mix with traditional wooden architecture and greeneries. It’s a destination in itself!

The concert took place in SLINK (Setengah Lingkaran or Half Circle), a semi coliseum stone stage arena with rice fields as its backdrop. We sat there, basked in the warm glow of the afternoon sun and the beauty of the scenery so rarely found in Jakarta. As the event kicked off, we were promised that we will be a part of something special. It was a collaboration between KJD  and Aksara Records, an independent record company, combining live performances with workshops on various themes (film scoring, photography, and so on) by the bands under its label.

Dik Doank kicked off the event

Dik Doank kicked off the event

And it turned out to be special indeed.

It was not just because of the music, although the bands were brilliant. I came for SORE but then fell in love with White Shoes and the Couples Company’s showmanship. Twosocks ended up buying a CD of The Adams. We jumped around with The Brandals and tried our best to comprehend the beat of Goodnight Electric.

A soiree with SORE

A soiree with SORE

The adorable White Shoes and the Couples Company

The adorable White Shoes and the Couples Company

It was the sense of community that made it so special.

Unlike the homogenous masses in other concerts, the crowd that gathered here was a mix of the cool peeps of Jakarta, kids and teenagers who are students or volunteers of KJD, and people from all ages living in the small suburban neighbourhood: the grannies, the dads and the moms, the uncles and aunties. And what do you know – you might be sitting next to the musicians themselves, who also enjoyed their comrades’ performances before or after their turns to grace the stage. They sat there, singing along, without hysterical screams of groupies or flashes of camera, just like the rest of us who were there for the music.

The eclectic audience

The eclectic audience

As anywhere else, wacky MCs talked their mouth off to entertain us in between performances. In this case, they are David Tarigan (the co-founder of Aksara Records) and Aldo Sianturi (its managing operation). In this case, they yakked for almost 12 hours – sometimes saying funny gibberish, mostly articulating what it means to be independent as a nation and in making music. They also introduced a new band called Pasukan Lima Jari and asked the audience to grade its performance, as a way to provide feedback to an aspiring musician. Where else can you find top recording company execs do this?   

Here was my kind of music, my kind of concert: spirited, idealistic, friendly, egalitarian, inexpensive, and most of all, memorable. I never guessed that I will discover this just by impulsively following a facebook announcement to feed my addiction.

See? Jakarta is a Pandora box of surprises. Follow your tune, and perhaps an exciting adventure will be revealed to you.

 

Jakarta, 20 August 2009

Gypsytoes

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Banyak Kejutan di Sumba Barat!

Sumba Barat mengejutkan saya dalam beberapa hal. Pertama, bahwa ini adalah pulau yang berbeda dengan Sumbawa (ayolah, saya yakin saya tidak sendiri di sini. Pilihlah beberapa orang yang bermuka agak bodoh di jalanan Jakarta, 4 dari 5 orang diantara mereka pasti bahkan tidak tahu apakah Sumba Barat itu termasuk NTT atau NTB!) .

Kedua, berjalan di jalan-jalan pedesaan Sumba Barat sangat menyenangkan karena udaranya yang ternyata sejuk dan banyaknya warna hijau di sekitar (saya dan beberapa orang berwajah dungu tadi pasti berpikir bahwa semua tempat di NTT itu panas dan tandus minta ampun). Sungguh saya betah duduk mengobrol di teras balai kecamatan Lamboya yang tinggi dan melihat hutan-hutan di ujung selatan.  Apalagi saat itu di sana agak gerimis.

Jalanan desa sumba

Ketiga, di Sumba Barat banyak sekali anak kecil. Di sepanjang jalan pedesaan akan tampak anak kecil disana-sini. Mereka sepertinya bertebaran dimana-mana: sekedar berjalan, bermain, atau mengangkut air. Dan karena mereka anak-anak, mereka mudah sekali tertawa dan kerjanya kegirangan setiap diajak ngobrol. KB tampaknya agak terlupakan di sini. Kata salah satu penduduk desa dalam sebuah obrolan, di Sumba Barat ini udaranya dingin dan sering tidak berlistrik. Karena itu banyak diantara mereka tidak menemukan banyak pilihan lain selain bikin anak. Wah.

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Keempat, Sumba Barat ternyata memiliki masyarakat yang sangat bersemangat untuk berkesenian. Yayasan Kelola, sebuah LSM kesenian di Jakarta mencoba membangkitkan potensi budaya masyarakat di sini. Saya kebetulan datang dalam sebuah pertemuan masyarakat budaya di desa Bondo Tera. Waktu itu masyarakat desa di sana sedang membuat tim untuk mengidentifikasi dan menggagas bagaimana potensi budaya di sana bisa dikembangkan. Masyarakat desa dan kepala desanya tampak bersemangat dalam pertemuan itu. Siang sebelumnya, si kepala desa ini juga sangat bersemangat memamerkan saluran air desanya yang baru. Masyarakat Bondo Tera baru saja selesai bergotong royong membangun pipa saluran air dari gunung sehingga mereka tidak harus berjalan kaki naik turun lembah untuk mencari air. Sungguh ia bangga bercerita tentang keberhasilan penduduk di sana memasang pipa saluran di medan yang sangat berat. Selain bersemangat mereka juga sangat senang bernyanyi, hampir di setiap jeda antar pembicara akan ada kelompok penyanyi yang bernyanyi berbagai lagu Sumba. Salah satu yang bagus sekali adalah kelompok yang membawakan lagu daerah yang baru saja mereka ciptakan. Lagunya tentang kawan lama yang akhirnya pulang. Biarpun saya tidak mengerti satu katapun, tampaknya lagu ini adalah lagu yang menyentuh.

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Kelima, Sumba Barat punya rumah-rumah adat yang bagus dan terjaga. Tentunya dengan kuburan keluarga yang besar dan terpampang di depan rumah. Misalnya di desa adat Tarung di dekat kota Waikabubak. Di sini tinggal orang-orang suku Loli. Jalan kaki ke sana di pagi hari dan melihat-lihat sangatlah menyenangkan dan segar.

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Nah, berbicara tentang Sumba Barat, haruslah juga disinggung tentang Pashola. Tradisi Perang Lembing yang fenomenal itu. Pemuda-pemuda Sumba yang pemberani akan naik kuda dan main lempar tombak satu sama lain.  Sepertinya seru sekali.  Karena tidak pakai pelindung atau sejenisnya, permainan ini lumayan berbahaya juga. Terkadang ada yang luka parah dan pernah ada yang meninggal gara-gara kepalanya kena lembing. Setiap orang yang saya temui bercerita soal ini dengan begitu bangganya. Pashola dilakukan  di sekitar bulan Februari-Maret di Lamboya dan Wanokaka. Sayang saya tidak bisa lihat pemuda-pemuda pemberani ini karena saya di sana pada bulan Juni.

Courtesy of www.sumbabaratkab.go.id

Seperti perjalanan-perjalanan lain di Indonesia, perjalanan ke Sumba Barat membuat saya ingin melihat-lihat Indonesia lebih banyak lagi. Berbicara dengan lebih banyak manusianya dan mendengar bagaimana mereka melihat hal-hal di sekitar. Indonesia masih akan punya banyak sekali kejutan.

Jakarta, Agustus 2009

Twosocks – tentang sebuah perjalanan di bulan Juni 2009

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Island Hopping in Belitung: Seize the Moment!

As the gentle waves of Belitung rocked the small wooden boat we were riding in, I wondered what one does exactly during island hopping. “Just chill,” answered one of my travel companions, a Puerto Rican-Brazilian-American boy. It turned out that he was only half right. We did master the art of chillin’, but more importantly, we discovered the importance of seizing the moment.

When you see a white-sand island so tiny you can circle it in five minutes: stop and hop!

Photo Courtesy of Ibnu Najib

Our first stop at 8.30 in the morning, Pulau Pasir, sparked our enthusiasm so much we couldn’t help but jumped high in the air in the excitement of a five-year-old on a sugar rush. Not a problem, really, since the sand has a real trampoline quality being so fine and soft. But seriously, who could help not getting thrilled upon seeing big, pink starfishes so akin to Patrick of the Sponge Bob series lay innocently at the shoreline – sometimes with not-so-innocent translucent stinging jellyfishes floating nearby?

Photo Courtesy of Sekar Sosronegoro

When you arrive in front of a tall, rusty lighthouse: climb all the way up!

Photo Courtesy of Ibnu Najib

Pulau Lengkuas, our next stop, was the only inhabited small island among the ones sprinkled in the area. It’s the home of an old lighthouse, which had provided comfort and guidance to the sailors of the yesteryear. It’s also the most popular among the small islands sprinkled in the area, therefore it is the also the most crowded one. As you can’t indulge with the billionaire with a private island feeling here, you might as well spend your time in the lighthouse. Although the staircase was rickety, your persistence and bravery will be sweetly rewarded once you’re on top. Have you ever known so many shades of turquoise?

Photo Courtesy of Ibnu Najib

When your boatman asked whether you’d like to have some coconut: say yes and follow him!

Photo Courtesy of Twosocks

We never thought that enacting the offer means climbing rapidly with his bare hands up the slim, slippery, graciously tall coconut trees. Or that the coconut would taste unlike any other you’ve had before: sweet, tingling, almost like an alcohol-induced concoction.

When you think it’s possible to swim across two islands: do it!

Photo Courtesy of Gypsytoes

Yes, we swam from the right island to the one on the left!

With several pre-cautions, of course. First, get an okay from your boatman. Although the sea looks very well-behaved, there may be some unknown nasty under current lurking. Second, grab your goggles. And last, have some company – it will boost your spirit beyond measures during the journey and helpful to look out for jellyfishes. Now, four members of our group can proudly boast that we have swum across the sea from Pulau Babi to Pulau Aji. How many of us can actually say that? 😉

And later in the evening, when you noticed how brilliant the stars are: grab a blanket and star-gaze well into the night!Not only were we lucky enough to have the beach with the best sunset in Belitung right in front of our wooden cottage, it also has thick, soft, cushiony sand ideal for an outdoor mattress. It was a perfect dessert after our bonfire dinner, to lay low and try to think whether we’ve seen better starlit sky. To quote the peculiar poetry of Incubus, ‘the sky resembles a backlit canopy, with holes punched in it’.

Wait, what does it have to do with seizing the moment, you ask?

Pulau Pasir was gone, completely submerged by noon, when we passed it on our way to another island. Had we postponed our hop there, we would have missed it altogether. I must confess, I did not go all the way up to the lighthouse and had regretted it ever since. And the night after, the sky was too cloudy and the stars had gone into hiding.

Horatius was wrong. Carpe diem, seize the day, is not enough. We must also seize the moment!

Jakarta, August 2009

Gypsytoes – of a trip in July 2009

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Welcome to The Dusty Sneakers!

We travelers just can’t win, can we?

Those who love globe-trotting with the ease of organized tours and have a penchant for souvenirs are ‘tourists’ – a thoroughly derogatory term in today’s vocabulary. They are considered as empty shells of a traveler. They traipse the places, but never meet the people or experience the real local life.

Those who are dubbed ‘backpackers’ are supposedly the ones with a soul to fill the shell, but who are we kidding here? Backpackers are as easy to be spotted and as predictable as tourists. How can you claim to have seen the real Bangkok, for instance, when all you meet in your Khao San hostel are foreigners and those you encountered while eating in that funky restaurant ‘Cabbages and Condoms’ hold the same copy of the Lonely Planet that you regard as a bible?

Those whose passion for traveling entails cunningly inserting sightseeing within a work trip, ‘the frequent flyers’, are called giants of the carbon footprint by today’s environmentally conscious people. Quite an irony, really, since many people in this category are climate change activists who flew from one continent to the other for conferences.

We have got to start taking a more laissez faire approach to traveling. People are as diverse as their preferred method of or opportunities to travel. There is no use replicating the hierarchy we hate so much when it comes to race or gender to this life-changing activity. Besides, who among us can honestly say we are not one of those things we hate some of the times?

Here at the Dusty Sneakers, we’d like to share travel stories as we give meaning to them. At times they may be touristy, at others they may have a backpacker feel – most often probably they make no sense if you want to put them in boxes. We are simple people who simply love going to unfamiliar places and would like to share our simple but significant moments during those trips.

So, welcome to the Dusty Sneakers. We hope you enjoy our kaleidoscopic travelogue!

Jakarta, 16 July 2009
Gypsytoes & Twosocks